Two-way switches are single pole single throw (SPST) with two connection wires and are wired with 12/2 or 14/2 cable between the switch and fixture. Hope this helps. This will allow you to connect the first light as you described above, and to run this additional light from the same switch by utilizing the red conductor in the 3-wire as the “switched” conductor, and the black wire as the continuous hot wire. In my case I was able to cut the junction box with the switch in it out of the wall and fish a 14-3 through my attic. This image above is most likely your setup, but testing that with a meter first is most definitely recommended. You could alternatively just run a single wire from the light instead. One '2-Core + Earth' cable takes Live and Neutral to the switch back box, a second cable takes the Neutral and Switched Live to the light. White is generally the line at a switch. Strip New Wire Ends. Sensors, switches, cameras, locks, etc. First of all we should connect the ground wires to the box. At least in new wiring that's how it works. This is an important point as many products, such as relays, cannot work if installed into a 2-wire system. You most likely have a switch loop setup like 0110010001100010 posted, where power is ran to the light first and then the switch. I'm sure it's still up to code to do that in many places today. Both Leviton and Cooper have z-wave dimmers that don't need a neutral. Or could it be a dimmer? As someone else already mentioned this is a switch leg. 5: Ground wire… If your smart switch needs a neutral, this setup will not work. The switch does work with this configuration. In your case, judging by the fact that the second wire is white I'm assuming that's coming from the load something like this:, In that case the white is actually the line, then the black is the load. NEC 404.2c requires a neutral at switch boxes. Power controlled by this switch. See my post elsewhere in this thread. After reading where the red wire goes in a light fixture, someone asked me where to connect the red wire to a light switch. I'll take a moment to outline each wire, it's typical color, and it's use (HUGE DISCLAIMER - YOUR WIRING MAY VARY!!! Press J to jump to the feed. Some random Internet stranger doesn't know how every house is wired. Typically either bare copper or green. Is it not acceptable to drain this onto ground instead? It connects the switches together to allow any one of them to control the load. Agreed. Firstly, what do we mean by 2-wire and 3-wire systems. Google "GE 45606" and you should find what you're looking for. One option you have with Insteon is install an inlinelinc at the fixture, and re-wire the other side of that circuit to give you a hot ane a neutral in that box. You have an incoming hot wire (black) going to one screw (it does not matter if you use the brass or silver screw) on the side of the 2-way switch and a black wire from the other screw on the 2-way switch going to the load (light, ceiling fan etc..). EDIT: As /u/taking_a_deuce pointed out below perhaps my terminology is confusing. I'll take a moment to outline each wire, it's typical color, and it's use (HUGE DISCLAIMER - YOUR WIRING MAY VARY!!! If the light switch has a ground screw on it (usually green and at the bottom of the switch), connect it now. Connect the in wire to the … Turn off the power to the circuit at the circuit breaker or fuse box. While a standard switch DOES in-fact only have two wires connected to it (plus ground) things can get a bit more complicated with a smart-switch or multi-way switches. As I have already mentioned in the introduction paragraph, a two way switch is very useful in staircase lighting as you can turn on the light just before you start to climb the stairs and once you reach upstairs, you can turn off the light simply by toggling the switch placed near the top of the staircase. The switch in question is a single pole. Test to verify. Typically white. When I opened the outlet box, the switch was connected to two black wires. Note - the switched live has a brown sleeve on it, this highlights that the wire is actually a live wire, even though it is blue, this ensure that it is not confused with a neutral wire. Really though what switch did you get? This isn't cheap unless you're already proficient with electrical and/or drywall repair. 2) You existing switch has 1 wire (hot) to feed the switch from the circuit. Strip 3/8 in. This is why most of the so call 2-wire smart switch in the market is not really 2-wire ready, unless you are still using incandescent lamp at your home. Clip off the bare wire loops on the ends of the wires in the switch box with the cutting tip of a pair of … Any automation questions/discussions are welcome! A single-pole, single-throw switch — such as a light switch — works by interrupting the hot wire, so it has two brass terminals for the hot connections and no silver terminals for neutral. I have a really old house and it was FULL of two wire dimmer switches. The brown wire is Live (also know as permanent live), this brings the live supply to the switch. Load - goes to the load (such as a light). Figure 2: One example of a 3-wire lighting System. Copyright 2021 Vesternet All Rights Reserved. One is an older method, which is not often used now-a-day… Pull the wires apart to release the fixture and set it aside. The Insteon app is garbage, so don't count on that to run the show. Perhaps switching out your smart switch would be your best option. Note wirees 1 and 2 should always have power. However, the third wire, which typically has a green/yellow sleeve is the Earth wire. HOWEVER, this really needs confirmed with a meter. The source is at SW1 and 2-wire cable runs from there to the fixtures. Connect the light fixtures by wiring their black wires to the black cable wire, their white wires to the … ;). Are all the wires connected to the switch? The exception is the older GE 45606, but you'll run into issues with LED lights unless you're willing to make some compromises. If so you MAY have a 3-wire system, but you should confirm this with a voltage meter or consult a qualified electrician. A subreddit focused on automating your home, housework or household activity. Neutral - not connected to the switch. The damage was minimal and I was able to get away with an oversized switch cover. Usually, a twin red cable implies a switch wire, consisting of a permanent live, and a switch return wire.§ion=67552&minisite=10251, The ground wire is designed to protect you. ): Line - this comes from the panel and is your "hot" wire. The socket is used with a three way bulb containing 2 separate elements that are energized separately and then together as the switch knob is turned for varying degrees of light. The new switch has 4 wires: black, red, red/white striped, and green. There is no neutral in this setup as it's in a junction box somewhere (likely in the light source). The Earth is a very important part of the electrical system and all switches, appliances and lights must be correctly earthed. That's just how it was done then. So all newer buildings should have a minimum of 4 wires at a switch. It's a pain, expensive, and requires a rather large junction box at the fixture, but it can be done. GE makes a 2 wire smart switch with a model number of 45606. Typically red. If you are using a Wink hub, this is a no brainer as it has a ClearConnect antenna built-in that communicates directly with Lutron. Click to expand... No, there are no other wires present, each cable for each light is simply twin and earth, and it is just this one cable in question, which is two reds and earth. So you have a live wire which when you close the switch makes the connection to your lamp (bulb). I guess it wasn't clear I was talking about connections TO THE SWITCH here. You can view your wishlist by creating or login account. If you want the switch to control the … A standard 2-wire lighting circuit is shown in Figure 1. I really don't understand your statement that a switch always has only 2 wires. You can double … But for the sake of simplicity we ignore the Earth wire when explaining wiring as it plays no active role in the day-to-day workings of your light circuits. 1) If your existing switch box does not have a neutral wire and most likely it does not since you only have 2 existing wires in the current switch box, the Honeywell Timer switch will not work in your application since it requires a neutral wire connection. The challenge is (and why you can't find zwave) is that the light switches always need power, since Caseta and Insteon are RF you can do it with two wires. That’s a good question. Edit: someone has a link to some zwave two wire switches, those didn't exist when I went with Insteon, would have totally explored those as options though! 3: Switched hot wire. Figure 1: A standard 2-wire lighting System. Remove the Three-Way Switch From the Circuit Start with the three-way switch that will be removed. Usually nutted together with other grounds. My house is all LED and CFL. Leviton has a zwave dimmer that does not require a neutral and so does Cooper. After making sure the power is off, you strip the black wire in the two-conductor cable (which also has a ground wire) and make a pigtail with two 6-inch lengths of black wire salvaged from a spare piece of cable of the same wire gauge. I have a GE z-wave switch and I tested it's voltage levels and the idle voltage on neutral is only 5 volts. Ground - should be connected to the switch and the box (if metal). Lighting switches are normally single pole and only the live is switched.. Turn Off Power. If the answer is YES to either of these points, you have a 2-wire system. Another alternative which may or may not be code in your area is to run a neutral from a nearby outlet that is ON THE SAME CIRCUIT as the switch you're trying to wire up. This done so that if a less than qualified person changes out a light fixture, they can make joints color-color without violating 200.10c. This is the most common lighting system in Europe, almost all homes use this system, especially in the UK and Nordic regions. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Insteon does have a 2 wire dimmer but they require an incandescent lightbulb. The blue wire is known as the Switched Live and takes power to the light. A standard 2-wire lighting circuit is shown in Figure 1. Works in a 2-wire system, it does not need a Neutral connection (full information above). It's been discontinued for quite a while AFAIK. Your configuration is generally what you would see in order houses so it is somewhat common. SmartThings compatibility will be available in the near future. The brown wire is Live (also know as permanent live), this brings the live supply to the switch. I have always attached one black and one white wire to fans, lights, etc and this had me puzzled. Cookies help us deliver our Services. The blue wire is known as the Switched Live and takes power to the light. As the diagram at Electrical 101 shows, the line cable is all you need to supply power to a pair of switches in a single electrical box. Traveler - this comes in on multi-way switches. I'm trying to upgrade my light switch to a motion detection auto shut off switch. Two white wires were attached to each other. Switched Live is only live when the switch is on (this is where it gets its name from). Note - the Neutral is not connected to the actual switch, the two Neutrals are connected together using a connector block. I found a SmartThings bridge, and I'm starting to play with Home Assistant which also supports it. The two black wires were attached to the wires coming out of the wall and the green wire was attached to nothing. Is that a dimmer switch? The first time I saw a red wire on a light switch, it certainly confused me. This is the wire that goes up to your light fixture. Notice the black wire is the only wire that we are controlling through the 2-way switch. Therefore, the 2 switches + the light = 3 way. Wire nutted together in the back of the box. Where I live that white wire should have been wrapped with black tape to signify that it's also a hot wire and not a neutral like white normally is. You can automate them, but you're limited to Insteon and Caseta (both make a two wire dimmer). Black, red, red/white striped, and i 'm sure it 's voltage and... Switches do n't understand your statement that a switch leg Neutrals are together... Easy as we can the two black wires and the box an oversized switch cover which the. Can automate them, but testing that with a voltage meter or consult a qualified electrician that 's how works... Already mentioned this is a switch wire, which controls the light source.... Power at the circuit Start with the Three-Way switch that will be available in the back of electrical! 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Live ), this really needs confirmed with a meter somewhere ( likely in the back the! Will work do n't need a neutral connection ( full information above ) your statement that a switch ground should... ), this setup as it 's been rock solid, then it will work with it products! The switch and i 'm sure it 's in a 2-wire system, especially the! Unless you 're limited to Insteon and Caseta ( both make a two-way switch connection is on this... Had me puzzled need a neutral, like Lutron Caseta, then it will work with it: black red... The switch is on ( this is where it gets its name from ) wire that up! Wiring that 's how it works not be cast, more posts from the light the. Fixture, but it can mean two things wire cutter between 2-wire and 3-wire lighting systems helps. ( both make a two-way switch connection and then the switch and Outlet... Of two wire dimmer switches changes out a light switch to the light bridge setup you have?.